Kamasan B110

The Kamasan B110 is a barbed grub hook available in sizes #10-16. It's built around a continuous curved shank that follows the natural arc of scuds, pupae and emerging insects — the curve does much of the shaping for you, paired with heavy wire, one step stronger than standard, adding a little sink rate and useful margin when fishing for larger fish. Tyers reach for it most often when working on general purpose. The sections below break down what each specification actually means at the vice, which patterns suit it, and which hooks from other manufacturers you can substitute when it's out of stock.

Shank length (Curved). This hook has a continuous curved shank that follows the natural arc of scuds, pupae and emerging insects — the curve does much of the shaping for you.

Wire strength (1XH). It's made from heavy wire, one step stronger than standard, adding a little sink rate and useful margin when fishing for larger fish.

Bend and gape (Std.). The B110 uses a standard gape, which keeps the fly's proportions traditional.

Eye type (Down). It's finished with a down eye, the traditional choice, which sets a good hooking angle for dry and wet flies fished on a tippet.

Barbed. This is a barbed hook. Many competition rules and an increasing number of catch-and-release fisheries require barbless, so check local regulations — the barb can be pinched down with flat-jawed pliers before you dress the hook.

What size Kamasan B110 should you use?

The B110 runs from size 10 through 16. The middle of this range covers most everyday trout patterns and is the sensible place to start if you're stocking a single size. If you're buying this hook for the first time, the mid-range sizes see the most use at the vice, and tracking exactly which sizes you own is where an inventory app earns its keep — it's the detail most tyers forget at the fly shop counter.

What can you substitute for the Kamasan B110?

If the Kamasan B110 is out of stock, the closest match in the database is the Firehole 315. When substituting, the specifications that matter most are gape and shank length — these determine whether the finished fly keeps its intended proportions. Wire strength is the next consideration, since it changes how the fly sits in the water: a heavier wire will sink a pattern that was designed to float. Eye type is usually the most forgiving difference, though switching to or from a jig eye changes how the hook rides entirely.

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